Saving Seeds

Saving Seeds in the Garden

SavingSeeds Saving Seeds

Saving Seeds

Now that we have been harvesting our crops, a number of people have asked about seed saving. Today I got a a copy of a new publication on seed saving. Although it is designed for teachers with school gardens, there is a bounty of really useful information included for everyone.

I have loaded the book onto our site, and you can read it by clicking this link: A Handful of Seeds – SEED STUDY AND SEED SAVING FOR EDUCATORS, by Tina Poles, Occidental Arts and Ecology Center. If you would like to save a copy to your computer, right-click the link and select ‘save as…’ from the pop-up menu.

As I said, this is meant for use in schools, but you will find everything from basic botany, parts of flowers named and explained, what (and why) are there fruits, essays on our major food crops and our food pioneers.

Soil Preparation and Backfill for Planting

Soil Preparation and Backfill for Planting:

I was at a party tonight (Happy birthday, Eileen!) and a lady told me a tale I had heard before. She bemoaned the fact that the more carefully she amended her clay soil, the worse her trees did.

There is a problem with the common wisdom on the subject. For as long as I remember, my dad insisted on mixing soil amendments into the planting holes of everything we planted – he was a landscape contractor, and that was a lot of plants and trees over the years. We made large holes, mixed in fertilizers, course redwood sawdust, blood and bone meal, etc.

We worked on the ory that you made life easy for the tree or shrub to get going and give it a nice place to live. Sounded good, and worked pretty good, most of the time, but we were often lucky in the soils we had to work with.

Today, research has shown that amending the backfill material with organic matter does not help, and may in fact hinder, plants becoming established.

The theory is that the change in soil texture creates a barrier to soil-moisture movement. The more sudden a change is soil texture occurs, the strong that barrier is. In the lady’s case, the clay soil is extremely dense, and the amended soil was very light.

In her case, whenever you watered the tree or plant, it would sit in a bathtub of water until it drains, which in clay soil is very slow. When you don’t water the trees or other plants, the root ball dries out too quickly, even though the clay soil still retains a lot of moisture, since available moisture is blocked from the roots by the sudden change.

Furthermore, the discontinuity in soil textures may prevent the roots from ever venturing out of the prepped hole. The roots may simply cirlce the hole, never moving out into the native soil.

The accepted way of planting is to plant in the native soil and enrich the surface, letting the natural soil denizens devour and distribute the amendments.

If your soil is really horrible, amend the entire area, not just the planting holes. One of the best ways to amend a large area is to ‘double dig’ it; this loosens the subsoil and speeds up the soil forming process. See the article on raised bed gardens for more on double digging. (http://gardening-coaches.com/raised-bed-vegetable-garden.php)

New Blackberry and Raspberry pages

I have added two new pages to my web site on growing Blackberries and growing Raspberries. Check them out if you have any interest in growing your own berries at home. Both of these berries, as well as most garden crops, do best with even moisture. A drip garden irrigation system in combination with raised beds and a covering of mulch provides the perfect conditions for growing berries.

Just a note, since berries propagate by underground runners, we have decided not to allow them in the community gardens.

Vegetable Garden Design

Vegetable Garden Design.

Here is a quick review of a piece of software I use and recommend. It is called GrowVeg, and it is an on-line, light-weight Java application that runs in your browser – you don’t even have to load any software.

You start by setting your location and climate zone, and giving a name to your garden(s).

GrowVeg provides a drag-and-drop interface that lets you first design your garden area, then drag crops to your garden lay-out and stretch the rows out to fit. When you are done, it prints planting charts with dates for starting, setting out and harvesting each crop, number of plants needed, and more.

Successive seasons are planned starting with a copy of you garden. As you add new crops to the garden, it reminds you to practice crop rotation.

Go to Vegetable Garden Design for the complete review.

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